Dining Out

Zagora

Above: Zagora

This cosy and exotic little gem in Devonshire Road has been a favourite haunt since its opening many years ago. When word reached us of a recent change of ownership, we thought an investigatory visit was in order to see if Zagora continues to wave the flag for Moroccan cuisine in West London. The cheering answer – certainly as far as the food is concerned – is a resounding ‘yes’.

Zagora’s décor is perfectly judged. Subdued lighting, warm, North African colours, mosaic-topped tables and, to the rear, traditional low, cushioned sofas for those with better backs than I! We sat in the main area where tables for two are well spaced and can be easily pushed together to cater for larger parties – several of which came in as we dined. An encouraging sign indeed..

The skilled team in the kitchen continues to work its culinary wonders with the traditional fare of couscous, tagine, pastilla and more. Morocco has been at the crossroads of many different civilisations and its cuisine reflects their exciting, varied influences. Berber, Andalucian, Turkish, Middle Eastern, Jewish… from all these cultures the country has absorbed and refined cooking styles, retaining a strong focus on combining meat with fruits and inspired use of spices. Bring a hearty appetite and prepare to experiment..

Complementary hummus and pitta bread is a nice touch but with such generous portions it can play havoc with your capacity! Starters of kofta m’charmla (meatballs cooked with onions, coriander, parsley and egg) and fried halloumi cheese were great for mixing and matching and both mains more than lived up to expectations: pastilla (layers of savoury pastry filled with shredded chicken, topped by a dusting of cinnamon, nuts and sugar) and Moroccan chicken with mint, yoghourt and saffron rice. The meat in both was achingly tender and the bottle of Boulaouane Moroccan red was a suitably robust accompaniment to the diverse flavours.

Puds were tempting but impossible, so we decided on refreshing mint teas to round off a real feast – excellent value at £56 including service. And therein lies the only small rub. The waitresses were uniformly delightful, radiating charm and smiles and obviously eager to do the best job possible. They’ll be helped inestimably in this ambition if the new management gives them some guidelines on a) knowledge of the menu b) successfully opening wine bottles andc) remembering requests for the bill – all of which would put the icing on the cake of a great night out!
(Davina Dewar)
Zagora
38 Devonshire Road, W4
Tel: 020 8742 7922