Dining Out

The George & Dragon

Above: The George & Dragon

Acton High Street has a new jewel in its (perhaps not very obviously glittering) crown. The George & Dragon has simply got to be one of the nicest locals we've test-driven in ages and a huge round of applause to its owners, the Remarkable Restaurants Group, who have in collaboration with English Heritage achieved such a stunning refurbishment of this venerable establishment.

For while the 2007 George & Dragon may be a new jewel, as a hostelry it has a pedigree reaching back nearly 500 years. The 16th century building, one of Acton's oldest, began life as a coaching inn on the London-Oxford road. It was first established as a pub in 1667; Dick Turpin supped his last drink here in 1759 (a list of landlords from this date adorns the walls) and in Victorian times a grand, high-ceilinged reception room was added at the rear. Once a live music venue, it's now a splendid dining area. French windows flood the room with light; a mirrored bar at one end faces Rousseau-esque murals at the other and a roaring open fire provides welcome winter warmth. With excellent booking rates, it's the perfect place for a party: indeed, on the day we visited it was hosting two groups of 10 and 16 diners respectively, with plenty of room for all!

To the front of the building, a cosy, low-timbered bar tempts you to linger over newspapers, the board games provided and, indeed, the excellent nosh served at lunchtime and in the evenings. The menu, Modern British with a European twist, varies but is consistent in its tempting quality: traditional favourites such as burgers, fish and chips, sausage and mash alongside sophisticated and exotic options including Tandoori salmon with Bombay potatoes or pan-seared wood pigeon. The Sunday roast is fast becoming legendary. Our quick lunch hit the spot perfectly: basil and garlic chicken glazed with mozzarella and sweet pepper chutney, served on garlic bread (with sinfully gorgeous potato wedges with sour cream and chive alongside), and plump sausages with champ and red wine gravy. Generous portions, rich flavours and charming service from the welcoming landlady and her staff - absolute pleasure for just £16. As an engraved sign on the lintel over the passageway to the dining room reads: 'There is no love sincerer than the love of food'. George Bernard Shaw had it right - and we love the new George & Dragon! (Elinor Malcolm)

George & Dragon, 183 High Street, Acton, W3. Tel: 020 8992 3712