Dining Out

Reef

Above: Reef

No doubt about it: when it comes to creating memorable restaurants, Lorraine Angliss knows what she is doing. First came Annie’s in Strand on the Green: a home from home with classy, eclectic style, gorgeous food at good value prices and staff combining professionalism with idiosyncratic panache. It was a great recipe for success – and one that soon saw the birth of an equally popular sister establishment over the river in Barnes. Then Rock and Rose on Kew Road, a bar/restaurant that proudly proclaims its themes of ‘food, passion and glamour’, and now Reef in Grove Park, the latest addition to Lorraine’s gastronomic empire which promises to ‘up the glamour stakes on traditional fish and chips’. That it certainly does – plus a whole lot more.

Without diligent forward planning, it proved hard to win a table at Reef, such has been its immediate popularity – but thanks to the ‘can-do’ attitude of the maître d’ (and the patience of the kitchen team, to whom we give warm thanks), we were squeezed in late one busy Friday night. A quick welcome drink in the tiny but characterful patio garden and then a table was ours in the intimate dining room, resplendent with Lorraine’s signature interior style – ornate mirrors, quirky ornaments, cosy cushions. In summer, the French windows open wide to the pavement, providing extra seating – subject to the approval of Hounslow’s planners! For now, it’s small but perfectly formed; so do book to be sure of a place.

Fish fanatics will think they’ve died and gone to heaven, but there are always tasty options for meat eaters, notably immaculate steaks. In maritime mode, however, don’t miss the zinging squid with pineapple and chilli salsa and the Goan fish curry and rice. That reduced my companion to sighs of bliss, his only complaint that a few more pieces of fish wouldn’t have gone amiss. As for the ultimate fish pie: its name says it all. Congratulations to whoever is buying and cooking the produce; even on sunny Mediterranean shores I can’t remember tasting fresher, more inspired offerings. A fantastic addition to the area. (Elinor Malcolm)

Reef, 1 Station Parade, Burlington Lane, W4. Tel: 020 8994 1988