Dining Out

Kiraku

Above: Kiraku

Eating at Kiraku Japanese restaurant in Ealing is a splendid experience, and one that stirs the senses from the minute you walk through the door. You really can smell salt, sea spray and seaweed… The previous day we had booked a table – thank goodness we hadn’t just banked on turning up because by 8.15pm the place was packed with a queue outside. We were the only Western Europeans among the Japanese clientele – a good sign. Previously, our experience of Japanese cuisine had been limited to sushi and so, after perusing a menu divided (with photographs) into lots of appetizers, mains and desserts we asked our waitress for advice on how best to proceed. She was absolutely charming but her guidance pretty much boiled down to ‘do what you want – you can order in a Western fashion if you wish – and pudding comes last’.

I started with mackerel braised in miso and Japanese vinegar garnished with a small cone of white radish and spring onions; it was meltingly soft with sweet and soy type flavours. My partner opted for aubergine that had been gently steamed (I presume) and was served in a bowl of stock – again, delicious. To follow the appetizers we chose a selection of tempura dishes and grilled meats and fish on skewers. The tempura was white and crisp and enclosed courgette, red pepper, aubergine and very large prawns; the skewers were packed with pork, chicken, beef, a type of prawn dumpling and quails’ eggs. The flavours were varied and wonderful and you could dip the food into soy or sprinkle it with a type of chilli flake. For dessert, green tea ice cream hit the spot beautifully and we enjoyed a glass of crisp Asahi draught beer with the starters and a house white – a very good dry number from the Langue d’Oc – with the mains.

Apparently, Kiraku translates into ‘easygoing’ or ‘comfortable’ and this description neatly sums up the restaurant. The welcome was genuinely warm and, despite the fact that everything seemed to happen at a gentle pace, the service always attentive; the smiles and elegant bows of the waitresses, who seem to have mastered the art of invisibly whisking away dishes, contributed hugely to the atmosphere. The meal came to £53 for two and we’ll definitely be coming back – and next time we’ll take a more adventurous journey through the menu.
(Andy Gardiner)

8 Station Parade, Uxbridge Road, Ealing Common, W5
Tel: 020 8992 2848