Dining Out

Bianco Nero

Above: Bianco Nero

‘5000 people work there,’ says Darren Smith, manager of Bianco Nero, waving towards Hammersmith Broadway. ‘And lots of them haven’t noticed us, so I’m keen to spread the word!’ I quite understand his ambition but I’m happy we got our booking in before the 5000 wise up: I’d hate to miss a seat in this elegant restaurant, which does classic Italian in style.

The best Italian tradition combines simple cooking with fresh ingredients and inspired use of oils and herbs and the Bianco Nero chefs confidently stick to a compact menu, superbly executed. No, that doesn’t mean you’ll break the bank. A well-priced set menu will cheer both office workers and their wallets or you can dine lightly on a starter-size à la carte main from £9. The Aperitivo Nero bar downstairs offers simple antipasto or pizza plus great cocktails – indeed, the wine list is a joy in itself. Certainly, it tempts you to splash out but our robust Alpha Zeta Rosato 2006 gave fine value at just £14, while the Fairview La Beryl Blanc 2006 dessert wine at £5.50 the glass was gloriously pear-flavoured.

Split into antipasti from £6.50, salads from £5, pastas from £6.50 and mains averaging a tenner, the menu allows equal scope for restraint or indulgence, with a fair nod to veggie tastes. After perfect amuse-bouches of tuna tartare with blood orange, warm poached egg with a Parmesan tuille and crisply bacon with baby spinach salad and beetroot salad with rocket and goats’ cheese got top marks, particularly the combination of golden beetroot and perfectly pungent cheese. Pork fillet with whole grain mustard potato and peperonata was as pink and tender as a Valentine’s date and artichoke and ricotta ravioli with mint butter sauce a textbook example of ‘less is more’: a perfectly-judged portion as filling as it was al dente. Puds were sublime: fresh fruit Macedonia with yoghurt mousse and a palate-cleansing mango sorbet.

Lucky Hammersmith, having now a cracking neighbourhood restaurant that’s perfect for a swift lunch hour or lingering dinner, pre-Lyric or Riverside supper, cocktails and snacks or stylish private party. Book before those 5000 get in on the act! (Alison Adams)

Bianco Nero, 206 Hammersmith Road, W6. Tel: 020 8748 0212